Nowadays, jewellery plays an increasingly important role in people's lives. And collectors' pursuit of jewelry has gone beyond the gems themselves, and they become more and more pursuing the value of design.
So who determines the value of jewellery design?
This is a good question.
For gems, we have pricing standards and market references, but there does not seem to be a fixed standard for the value of design, and aesthetics are a matter of opinion. When auction houses are valuing jewellery lots, in most cases they simply do not consider brand value and design value. If experts favour the design of a piece of work, it is almost certain that it will be a big hit at auction, but it will still only be evaluated from the gem and the crafting itself. So how does the value of design manifest?
In 2012, Cindy Chao's "Rebirth Butterfly Brooch" was sold at a hammer price of 5 times the estimated price of about one million US dollars. The multiple of the difference between the transaction price and the estimated price is the value of the design.
In 2020, Wallace Chan's "Fire Phoenix" brooch sold at HK$2,375,000, nearly three times more than the underestimated price. This gap also comes from the recognition of collectors.
Although we cannot judge the superiority of design by price, outstanding works that have been recognized since ancient times will certainly have matching high prices. Because the real value of design has always been left to the buyer to decide! Which works can have more value than the material is really measured by real money, which is very fair.